Gion and the Truth about Geishas

Are there Geishas left in Gion?

Since the time of the Edo period, Kyoto has been considered the center of the Geisha scene, and Gion is its focal point.  It is safe to say that the Geisha scene is not the same as it used to be. In fact, according to Lonely Planet, Geisha numbers have been dwindling.

The image of Japanese Geishas has captured the hearts and imagination of people all over the world. Many tend to romanticize their existence and the life they supposedly live. This image has been widely perpetuated when author, Arthur Golden released the historical novel “Memoirs of a Geisha”, which later became a bestseller and was adapted into a film.

Because of the success of the novel, the art of the Geisha has been gravely misunderstood.  Geishas are not raised to be high level prostitutes who service specific masters. Yes, the part where they are trained to be highly skilled in music and performance arts is true. They are like theatrical performers or ballet dancers whose main duty is to make social settings more entertaining. A Geisha’s life is rigorous and intricate; it is meant to be shrouded with mystery, as this is part of their appeal and allure.  Oddly enough, the name, Geisha, is not often used to refer to these talented women in Kyoto. The full-fledged ones are called Geiko while the younger bunch in training are called Maiko.

The small number of Geishas still existing in Gion are surely not be found running around the streets, waiting for hordes of tourists to “photo-mug” them. Apparently, this has become a problem for many of these ladies. I have come to appreciate the history of Geishas without the real need to see or capture their image. Geishas are women with extreme dedication to their craft. I imagine that those who practice this lifestyle are not overly keen to become tourist novelties.

I did not see any real Geishas when we walked all throughout Gion. We did, however, come across Asian women and couples wearing traditional costumes, having their pictures taken. They were surely not the real deal. Still, I understand a visitor’s excitement when they catch sight of a seemingly Japanese woman in traditional “Geisha-ish getup”. I felt that tingle of excitement myself when I saw the colorful clothing. But I was not even sure that those people were even Japanese. I discovered that some tourists actually pay to be dressed up like Geishas, in hopes, perhaps of capturing a little bit of that fascinating romantic Japanese Geisha history.

If you really want to see a modern-day Geisha performance, then you have better luck going to an authentic ochaya – a geisha tea house. Some of the teahouses were built as early as the 17^th century and have managed to survive the passing of the centuries. A number of them are located along main Gion spots like Shijo Street and Hanami Lane.   These establishments offer private geisha shows. But because they are very exclusive, be prepared to spend top dollar to secure a seat. Ichiriki Chaya is hailed to be one of the oldest and most popular ochayas in all of Kyoto.